Trip Report: Manizales, the coffee region, Colombia

February 23: We arrived in Manizales yesterday and everyone quickly piled on their layers as soon as we hit the tarmac. It´s obvious that we´ve become accustomed to the warm climate of Colombia because the `coldest place in the country´ has us shivering- despite being a normally comfortable 60 F. This is part of the coffee growing region in Colombia. The microclimate here is a perfect balance of rain and sun, situated at just the right altitude. Additionally, many of the dramatic and steep hills are actually inactive volcanoes, now carpeted in thick green vegetation. The volcanic ash also adds richness to the soil to grow some of the best beans worldwide.

I took a tour of a small coffee plantation which features mostly shade grown coffee. We walked through the entire process, from the berry picking to the drying and roasting stages. Our guide , Ceider, was passionate about coffee like a sommelier; he paused with every sip to determine subtle distinctions in the smell and taste. His warm-hearted demeanor was touching, especially when he interrupted the tour, responding to a dog´s whimper, to carry his very old companion from the porch to the grass for some sun. The morning stroll through the grounds was finished with shared coffee, of course, and blackberry juice which is an apparent staple in Colombia. My appreciation of coffee has always verged on fanatic, but this tour certainly shed light on the many items I consume without acknowledging its origin.

Tomorrow, it´s on to Rio Blanco which is one of Manizales´ nine (!) nature preserves. We´re promised many hummingbirds and beautiful hikes- we´re all crossing that the sun perks up and the rain lets up a bit.

Trip Report: Santa Marta, Colombia

Februaray 20, 2009: Medellín, Colombia

I arrived in Colombia for a birdwatching tour and knowing the names of only a dozen or so species back home, I knew I had a lot to learn. In three days, I´ve at least quadrupled that number. I have some top quality birding guides leading the way which makes it all much easier. But even without the guides, it would be impossible not to notice the amazing avian diversity and density in Colombia. The country actually ranks first in the world for number of species (barely beating Brazil and Peru) with close to 1,900.

That number is growing too, I learned as we watched an owl swoop overhead by moonlight in the El Dorado Nature Reserve. The owl, like a few other species around Santa Marta, has been recently ¨rediscovered.¨ This means that one specimen had been discovered in the early 1900´s, but never seen or recorded since. When it was discovered again in the region, research showed it had been described before but forgotten because it so rarely appeared. At this point, the owl is in the process of receiving its official scientific name so it remains unnamed for the time being.

The new owl is just one example of why Santa Marta, and specially the El Dorado reserve, is such an attraction to birders. Of the over 100 species found in the area, 16 are endemic (meaning they aren´t found anywhere else on earth). Not being a birder I know that I can´t fully appreciate such a destination; for instance, I don´t share the same long face as my fellow travelers when the Tapaculo wasn´t spotted yesterday, despite hearing its calls for 15 minutes. Nevertheless, this is a stunning spot and the biodiversity will charm even the casual naturalist. The Santa Marta Sierra Nevada stands apart from any other mountain chain, rising thousands of meters straight from the ocean. Its most famous area, Tayrona National Park, is finally safe for tourists to explore. After such a tumultuous period in which more than one-third of the area was controlled by guerillas, I´ve found people speak freely of the relief they feel now and embrace tourism to the region.

Tomorrow, flying from Medellín to Bahía Solano on the Pacific coast- a place you can´t find anywhere on google earth. More birding and hopefully some time to surf . . . .

New Eruption on Chaiten Volcano, Chile

Volcan Chaiten, in Southern Chile, has started to show increased activity again, according to Detour travel partner TravelArt Chile.

The activity started on Thursday, February 19th. The volcano, which lies south of Pumalin Park at the northern part of the Carretera Austral, and near the Futaleufu River, erupted in May 2008 causing a great deal of damage in the area, including in Chaiten.

According the Chilean Emergency Management Office, there is a high possibility for the crate to collapse, which woulc cause new pyroclastic bursts and dangerous ash precipitations. A complete evacuation of Chaiten has been arranged, and it is forbidden to enter the town.

Read more about the eruption here:

Chile's Chaiten volcano spews molten rock, ash

Happy Birthday Charles Darwin!

Charles Robert Darwin was born February 12, 1809, in Shrewsbury, England, the fifth of six children. He is among the most influential scientists who ever lived. His visit to the Galapagos Islands was very influential in helping him form his theory of evolution.

2009, the 200th anniversary of his birth will be celebrated throughout the Galapagos to honor the man and the island chain he made famous.

Trip Report Peru: Fiesta de la Virgen de la Candelaria

Puno, Peru is known as the folkloric capitol of the Andes and for good reason. The Fiesta de la Virgen de la Candelaria is celebrated here in style with days of raucous parades, elaborate costumes, and dancing.

Andean Adventures, a local tour operator, was in Puno this year to attend the festivities and photograph this colorful event.

Puno is right on the shore of Lake Titicaca, the world's highest navigable lake, which is dotted with islands. Indigenous people still live on these islands, carrying on ancient traditions of weaving, dress, farming, and agriculture. Lake Titicaca is noted as a top destination to visit in the world, not least because of the amazing cultural highlights. You can find out more about Andean Adventures and their tours here: http://www.detourdestinations.com/provider_info.php?provider=andeanadventures